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Is
Your Clarinet OK? Part One
by Robert Baca and
Ken Cance
With
ever decreasing budgets and the band directors need to become more
efficient, the I dont know how it happened avoidable
repair can add up to more than a bottle of Tylenol. With a little neglect,
or using the wrong method of band-aid remedy, small repairs
can eat away at the budget, and cause instruments to be missing from rehearsal.
To provide some sound advice for students, I asked nationally recognized
woodwind repair expert Ken Cance to identify the most common maintenance
issues with clarinets.
Are the following
experiences familiar?
I
get unwanted squeaks and squawks when I play.
The fingering is correct but the sound is still fuzzy,
or the instrument wont play at all.
It works when I push really hard on the keys.
I can play the low notes when I slap the keys down
but
it does not respond with normal finger pressure.
Through
the years I have observed the frustration of musicians plagued with trying
to make music on an instrument that is mechanically deficient. As the
instrument is played, changes in materials will cause the instrument to
slowly go out of adjustment. Pads may compress or become hard, brittle
or torn. Key corks and tenon corks can compress, wear, dry out or fall
off completely. The key mechanism can become misaligned, noisy, or frozen
due to a number of possible causes.
Because changes to the function often are
gradual, the experienced musician learns to compensate for the deficiencies
of the instrument, and unknowingly expends more energy to make the instrument
play. The beginning or young musician can often become so frustrated,
believing that they are not capable of progressing on the instrument,
that they will give up trying to learn.
If the musical instrument does not function
at its maximum potential, the musician playing will be unable to achieve
their creative potential. Given proper care and monitoring, an instrument
can serve a musician for many satisfying years.
The following information is intended to
help identify many of the causes of instrument malfunction. The purpose
is to help identify, locate and understand the instrument and key mechanism,
so that when problems do arise they will be noticed and can be addressed
immediately. Although much of the discussion can be applied throughout
the clarinet family, the focus will be on the soprano clarinet.
SOCKET RINGS
Caution: If the socket rings
are loose, DO NOT assemble the clarinet.
The clarinet has two socket rings on the
barrel joint, one on the lower joint and one on the bell. The socket ring
is a metal band, which supports the socket of the female connection on
the joints of the clarinet.
Photo 1
If the socket ring is not secure, the pressure
from the tenon during assembly could crack the socket wall. The socket
joint wall is very thin and must withstand the pressure of the counterpart
tenon when assembled. A socket ring is secured over the end of the socket
in order to support the internal pressure exerted by the tenon cork, as
well as the weight of the two joints.
Socket rings usually become loose due to
drying of the wood. This is a common occurrence in cold winter climates
when the air is dry. When this happens, the wood shrinks allowing the
socket ring to float or move freely. Securing the socket ring is not an
extensive repair for the technician if it is repaired prior to the socket
cracking.
TENON AND TENON CORKS
Ensure that the tenon corks are
clean, lubricated and create an airtight seal.
The various joints of the clarinet are connected
by a tenon and socket arrangement. The tenon cork functions to secure
the joints together and create an airtight seal. New instruments do not
come with tenon corks lubricated. A small amount of cork grease should
be rubbed into the cork as a lubricant so that the joints connect easily
and create a positive seal, as well as prevent the cork from drying and
tearing.
When applying the cork grease, rub it briskly
into the cork so it penetrates the pores of the cork. Assemble the joints,
then disassemble and wipe any excess grease from the tenon, as well as
the inside of the socket. Because of the close proximity of the G#/C#
key tone hole to the center tenon, grease and dirt that becomes too excessive
can hamper the seal of the G#/C# key pad.
Over a period of time, the grease on the
tenon will attract dirt, lint and other particles. It is therefore a good
practice to regularly wipe the tenon and tenon cork clean with a dry cotton
cloth and apply new cork grease. A cotton swab is useful for wiping dirt
out of the bottom of the socket. A pipe cleaner is useful for cleaning
around the tenon between the cork and the body section.
Photo 2
CLARINET ASSEMBLY - UPPER & LOWER JOINTS
HAND POSITION: The instrument must be
assembled without applying excessive pressure to any key or lever causing
it to bend in any way.
Excessive pressure to keys, levers, rods
and pad cups may easily cause a precise regulation of the key mechanism
to become faulty. To assemble the upper and lower joints:
Grasp the upper joint in the palm
of the left hand (barrel tenon pointing away and rings facing up), depressing
the ring keys with your fingers, thus raising the upper bridge key.
Grasp the lower joint with the thumb
firmly on the body between the low F/C and low E/B key pad cups, the fingers
gripping around the joint where there are no keys and the palm of the
right hand over the low E/B key hinge.
Photo 3
JOINT ALIGNMENT: When assembled, the
posts of the upper and lower joint ring keys should be in alignment, as
well as the upper and lower bridge.
The alignment of the post balls of the ring
keys/stack keys on the upper and lower joints establishes the correct
alignment of the tone holes in order to establish proper hand position.
When this alignment is determined, the bridge keys should also be in perfect
alignment. If the bridge keys do not align, they may be bent or in need
of adjustment.
Photo 4
Check that the upper and lower joints are
aligned parallel to each other in a straight line and are wobble free.
Deviation caused by a wobbly connection can affect the regulation (equal
closure) of the upper and lower joint bridge key pads.
MOUTHPIECE, LIGATURE & REEDS
The compatibility of the mouthpiece
with the instrument may be one of the most significant factors in the
playing potential of the instrument.
If there is no damage to the mouthpiece
and the instrument sounds stuffy or does not project well, experiment
with different mouthpieces. Often this alone can immensely improve an
otherwise properly functioning instrument. The mouthpiece that came with
the instrument may not be the most compatible for every player.
Chips, scratches or damage present
on the mouthpiece tip or facing can greatly affect the performance of
the instrument.
Limited repair may be done in these areas.
Replacing the mouthpiece is usually the best recourse.
Do not pull the swab through the
mouthpiece, as the metal weight is likely to scratch the inner surfaces
or chip the tip.
With a finger in a soft, lint free cloth
or chamois, wipe the mouthpiece from both open ends. Use caution not to
scratch any of the mouthpiece bore or dull the sharpness of the rail on
the facing of the mouthpiece. If the mouthpiece is unusually dirty, cleaning
is best done with a soft brush and warm, mild soapy water.
Ensure that the ligature is free
of bends & cracks, conforms to the mouthpiece & reed, and is placed
between the reference lines etched into the mouthpiece.
Photo 5
There are a wide variety of ligatures available
today. All are designed to achieve a similar purpose: to hold the reed
in place and yet allow the reed to vibrate freely. The shape of the ligature
is designed to conform to the roundness of the mouthpiece and the butt
portion of the reed. Be careful when assembling that the ligature conforms
to the reed at the area designated. Tighten the ligature screws until
they just hold the reed firmly. Over tightening the ligature screws will
restrict the reed vibration. Bent, cracked, chipped or out of round ligatures
may hold the reed unevenly and adversely affect the performance of the
instrument. These reeds should be replaced.
The reed must be in good condition,
free of chips and cracks, and be properly placed on the mouthpiece.
When placing the reed on the mouthpiece,
ensure that the tip and the butt of the reed are centered on the mouthpiece.
When looking directly across the tip of the reed, a minute portion of
the mouthpiece should be seen. Reeds that are chipped or cracked should
be discarded. After each playing session, the reed should be placed on
a flat surface so it will dry naturally without warping. An assortment
of reed guards are available from music dealers for this purpose.
BORE, TONE HOLES & BODY
Removing all moisture after each
playing session is probably the single most significant preventive maintenance
that can be done to prevent cracking of wooden instruments.
The better grade clarinets are made from
a very hard African Blackwood or Grenadilla. Any wood, no matter how hard,
is prone to cracking. Natural cracking is generally caused by changes
in humidity. When humidity changes are extreme, the instrument is most
vulnerable to cracking. Often, cracking will occur even if extra preventive
measures have been taken. Cracks usually will appear in the upper part
of the upper joint and stop when they reach a tone hole or post. Look
on the outside of the body as well as its counterpart location in the
bore to determine if a crack is present. Often an open grain or resin
canal on the body surface may look like a crack but does not completely
penetrate to the bore.
Preventive measures can decrease the likelihood
that cracks will occur. Keeping the instrument from any extreme change
in humidity or temperature is one of the most beneficial things we can
do to prevent cracking. If the instrument has been in the cold, allow
the instrument to adjust to room temperature gradually before playing.
The warm moist air induced into the bore by playing can be shocking to
the cold, outside wood body causing it to stress and crack.
Always swab each joint separately with a
chamois or clean, absorbing swab to remove all moisture from the bore.
Use caution that the weight does not scratch the bore. Wipe excess moisture
from the tenons and sockets with a soft, lint free cloth after each playing
session.
Caution: Oiling the bore
with the keys in place is not recommended, as the oil may dry out and
harden the pads, which will inhibit their seal.
An oil treatment to the body can often help
resist the drying that takes place in the wood and help prevent cracking.
It is recommended that the keys be removed from the instrument and the
oil be applied inside and out so that the body can absorb oil from all
surfaces. Seek a professional repair shop for this service.
THUMB REST
Check regularly to ensure that
the thumb rest screws are secure.
If the thumb rest is loose, snug the screws
so that the thumb rest is secure. As the screws become loose, the thumb
rest will begin to move and wobble. The stress placed on the thumb rest,
due to the weight of the instrument, can cause loose screws to eventually
break out of the body creating a major repair in that area.
If the screws will not tighten, an oversize
screw may be installed to secure the thumb rest. Only use an oversize
screw that is designed for the thumb rest. Oversize screws are available
from your local band instrument repair technician. If that does not solve
the problem, see a qualified repair technician for advice.
Photo 6
Ken Cance has been Woodwind Repair Instructor of the nationally recognized
Band Instrument Repair Program at Minnesota State College-Southeast Technical
(Red Wing) since August 1994. In addition to teaching instrumental music
for twelve years, he has also managed the Department of Defense Musical
Instrument Repair Facility located in Germany, has operated a repair shop
in Texas and has established his own band instrument repair business in
Wisconsin. Ken is a member of the National Association of Professional
Band Instrument Repair Technicians (NAPBIRT) and has presented clinics
both regionally and nationally.
Copyright © 2002
Neil A. Kjos Music Company. All rights reserved.
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